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Nothing better than wet breasts!

Very grateful for invaluable video. I need a small (6m square) patch done if you know anyone in Folkestone - Dover area please

So can you insert the rods on the outside of the wall? Thanks

Nowt wrong with his trowel.If you are plasterer you would know its impossible to keep your steel trowel spotless like stainless one. Regular floating and screening will keep your carbon steel in good order. Trowel walls next day...impossible. maybe hard trowel.

Ralph's Hawk is bigger than him 😂😂😂

Good video...but fussy builder...stop complaining, tell price, few quid extra and get the job done...I'm no plasterer but done many first attempts in my own houses during moves..I left chunks of plaster on many times, no PVA or real scrub down , still standing and looking solid..theses builders over complicate simple processes to look "professional" it seems owners has enough knowledge how not to do it to your standards, i guess you just want to make a pointless video with no real depth of info to your reasoning....and wanting to dot and dab , that's cowboy job..get lime on it...

Kenwood Damp proofing get their guys to hack off Dpc Float and set and stick skirts on same day. 5m2

I’m on my second time owning a brick house . I’ve learnt a lot since owning a brick house . One thing I would never do is insulate the cavity . It’s there for a reason . Of course an insulation company will tell you otherwise but they certainly are not builders or brick layers . If you need more insulation then buy another house but don’t fill the cavity because it’s not a matter of if it will get wet but when it gets wet and now you have a major problem on your hands . The other thing is painting brick ! I have no problem with it however you should stain it rather than paint it . Mortar is porous and to my mind sealing it off can only be beneficial and let’s not forget your only painting one side out 6 so where’s the issue . Any moisture that may occur on the backside of the brick is taken care of by a well functioning air cavity . Simple .

Is it me or the adhesive for iso-therm like a polymer"One Strike"as just recently used this and adhesive smelt similar to One Strike?

how far in do you drill? And why are diy sticks smaller than contractor sticks?

FYI ‘Breathability is the water vapour transmission rate, or the speed at which vapour passes through a particular material or construction.’ I’m surprised them didn’t cover this on your CSRT course.

Hey Sam, thank you for the video, this is exactly the problem we had and had roofers come and tell us we needed new flashing. So I’ve already spent a load of money and not solved the problem. Even if you cap the chimney and solve the problem of moisture in the chimney will the salts just keep coming back through the plaster?

Would it not be cheaper to hack off the damp affected plaster at low level, then install a taller skirting board?

Do you have a email adress ?

So my surveyor Saturday is advertised as independent but also PCA registered. Scratching me head

Hi Simon, just a quick question once you have hacked out the mortar/plaster from the bottom of the wall will this then solve the bridging issue or do you have to drill in and apply the damp proof rods?

Very helpful pal, there's green algae at foot of front house I'm not too bothered about, but the gable end wall has high damp reading in places but inside there are no signs at all nor smells. Baffled so got a PCA damp survey being done Saturday. Fingers crossed it's something simple. Thank you for vids they're taking much of my time up lately gadgy.

Cringe watching that feller, made hard work of that did the lad.

Mate your fucking hilarious and I follow you religiously, absolutely love your damp vids and have learned loads from ya. However, I must add, down south it's a hawk and trowel and a crate is referred to as a hop up. If you called it a hand board I'd have sacked thee too mush. 😂😂😂😉

Christ get on with it, its like pulling teeth out watching this 😂

How does Vinyl wallpaper deal with damp? Like not using gypsum, I've heard vinyl wallpaper is also a no no. Is this another lie?

Guy has his head full of sawdust and pound signs in his eyes.

This guy has zero knowledge about building science. An absolute grifter.

If you put tanking systems and membranes on solid stone walls you will literally trap moisture in the wall Now on a period property you could have perfectly good wooden lintels that have lasted 100s of years But as soon as you throw on non permeable products on walls (that are naturally beathable/permeable) you will begin the cause dry rot and potentially damage softer masonary. You literally contradict yourself in your videos and in your trade Maybe you hide damp problems on certain buildings but give it a few years and it will be back Cement on solid walls causes cold spots=condensation Tanking is made from cementeous material Plastic Membranes (put it this way if you put a wet sponge in a plastic bag the sponge is still wet maybe you cant see it but whats all that moisture doing within your walls its softening the foundations) I spend half my time removing shite damp proofing systems because it has caused a different type of damp. I worked for a well known damp proofing company and it disnt take long to realise damp proofers just thoughtlessly and temporarily hide symptoms of damp. With all due respect ive seen a few of your videos and some are alright but mostly your just making up explainations to suit your knowledge In a very close minded way

Brill video, I’m a bit confused about the Flux HR plus as it says on website it’s for habitable areas only ? I was going to fit in kitchen and bathroom

Just bought place. Could be same issue, but breasts removed. Had chimneys capped, but paint still peeling and smells like damp. Can I send you a photo, please?

I just liked and subscribed.

DPC has been breached with high slabs. Also one wall the slabs are almost at air vent/air brick level. Would you recommend moving the air vent higher and using dry rods? Was told that I need to move slabs 2 bricks back from wall and digg one foot trench along outside of house and fill with pebbles Please help you cheeky sod 😆 thanks

I want to thank you Sam. I’ve been a plasterer for 20 years and never been interested in damp stuff, i turn the jobs down, but after watching you for the last couple of months you’ve changed my mind. Booked on my pca course next month so I can start watching those pounds raining down soon. ❤

Very interesting indeed and looks identical to my own house with a salt band along nearly every internal solid wall (solid floors). What is the best way to solve this - drill and inject and then dry line? Thanks

Once the cause of the damp is stopped, how soon after should you apply the wash? Should I wait for the wall to dry out? The wall from the outside is still damp to the touch (We have concrete gutters which had cracked)

Could you please elaborate on what the preservation sector is and course I’ve never heard of this…

Hi sam another great video, don’t know why people are getting pissed off when you tell the truth, all your doing is putting people right , to save the next person who wants to have a crack at doing a small bit of damp work, doing it wrong. How do I get on your coarse. .👍

21:17 LOL☠💀💀☠

He's a scouser his lips are moving he must be lying

You take the word breathing to literally, come on it is the perfect word to describe the process with lime.

I was with you until you started talking about more dpc etc. This poor little house needs to have all the modern rubbish ripped out and the outside ground levels lowered.

Hi Sam.ive watched a few of your video's based on damp issues.There clearly need to draft up certified damp training courses given across the uk to qualified plasterers to really get these problems 100% eliminated as its a ongoing common problem that we see over and over again throughout the uk.

Hi sam good video can u suggest any training for damp proofing training ? thanks

Nice to see an on site vid, hope your well Simon👍

Hi Sam. Very interesting. Grateful for the advice on having a specific damp and timber surveyor. We are purchasing a property in London and have a damp issue under the stairs on a party wall. Neighbour says they havnt any damp on there side. Any good surveyors you would recommend down our way. Also a good link to good push pull fans would be great if you could recommend?

Hi Sam. Very interesting. Grateful for the advice on having a specific damp and timber surveyor. We are purchasing a property in London and have a damp issue under the stairs on a party wall. Neighbour says they havnt any damp on there side. Any good surveyors you would recommend down our way. Also a good link to good push pull fans would be great if you could recommend?

You must be a joke pall 😂old beads left on what sort of a plasterer are you

You don’t look like a plasterer to me like

Any chance you have any recommendations on some books or documents to read before the PCA CSTDB? I've got my head in the ventilation document at the minute.

I’m a North American builder who studied vapour barriers and air tight building methods and also have experience on historical buildings . Now living in Ireland and restoring century old house with extra 1970 addition on it .(very similar to U.K building practices and environment) In N.A We have been using poly vapour barriers since late 1970s and insulation on interior and is probably one of the best improvements for heat and condensation. We started using mechanical ventilation since 2000’s and is now good building practice in N.A , modern well built houses had air quality tested to be the best . Moisture and toxic vapours from carpet/glues are exhausted and replaced with exterior fresh air . These building details have been designed by building engineers , Architects and extensive case studies since early 1970’s. Old section I’m exposing interior stone/brick surface . I ripped out all the interior cladding consisting of layers of crumbling lime plaster , oil paint , insulative wall paper , 1/8” wood paneling, painted and then wall papered again . All these layers were damp and disgusting . Then I reversed the exterior grade/slope to shed water , replace black soil with perforated drainage pipe to sunlight away from house and graded in crusher run . Fixed rain drainage to storm/sewer . Replaced interior old concrete slab with damp proof/radon, 100 mm insulation and concrete. I noticed the dampness 3’ up the stone walls disappear in a month . The stone house is nice and dry now and I’ve done nothing to the walls “yet “ The outside has cement render in excellent condition apart from a few subsidence crack which I’ll leave as a “ settled condition” . If I put gypsum on interior old stone walls it’ll probably fall off where as lime plaster would allow the water moisture to pass to inside and hopefully get pushed back out windows with heat and or ventilation. Mould occurred from lack of air movement and probably feeds of the interior dust and excessive humidity which can grow to alarming levels if not checked . In 1970 section of house I will use gypsum board on 3” insulation on interior but insulation will stop any external moisture damaging the slab (hopefully)

My dad used to rent a shop premises, which was the dampest building I ever saw. It had a cellar as in this video, with rivers of damp around "drains" at the edge. The cellar had open stairs to the shop above, which had very large glass display windows. In winter, when the minimalist "heating" was on (calor gas radiant heaters which seem to spew damp into the air?) you could not see into the shop from outside. It was riddled with damp, and you could smell it when you walked in. When it rained and people walked in with wet feet, the floors would be damp for days. Horrible building, which I imagine could have been easily made good.

youtube missing a rotation function 🤣🤣